Essential oil families - the perfume olfactory groups

Do you ever wonder what constitutes a Chypre fragrance, or an Aquatic? Is your favorite perfume called an Oriental Floral, but you don’t know why? You are not alone. Most consumers don’t realize that each fragrance is a member of an olfactory group. There are six main families that each have their respective sub-families. While knowing these groups is not essential to wearing perfume, it is helpful to know what olfactory groups appeal to you most when looking for a new fragrance to wear for yourself or a loved one. Below is a list of the perfume ingredients found in each family, with the most popular essential oils used to create each group and their respective sub-groups.

Floral - Feminine and Romantic
The most popular group used in women’s fragrance, florals can be based on a combination (bouquet) of flowers including rose, peony, tuberose, lily and jasmine or a single flower note (soliflore).

Aquatic
Marine notes are added to the floral for a crisp, fresh scent.
Cool Water Woman Perfume by Davidoff, Splash - Gardenia by Marc Jacobs
Aldehyde
First made popular by Chanel No 5, aldehyde florals use powder or soft wood scents to create a distinctive fragrance.
L'Interdit by Givenchy, Caleche by Hermes
Woody Floral
A rich wood or musk note is added to give the floral scent a warm finish.
Chanel No 19, Elle by Yves St Laurent

Floral Green
A newer floral family that incorporates the smell of freshly cut grass or crisp cucumber notes.
Gio by Armani, Vivara Emilio Pucci

Fruity Floral
Bright fruit notes such as strawberry, watermelon, apple and apricot add flavor to floral notes.
Escape by Calvin Klein, Calyx by Perscriptives

Chypre - Timeless and Original

This fragrance family is built on distinctive top notes of oak moss, bergamot, patchouli, and labdanum. The result is a strong and spicy fragrance with a powdery finish.

Chypre Floral
A soliflore or bouquet is added to the chypre fragrance for a sweet edge. Rose, jasmine, peony and lily are commonly used.
Knowing by Estee Lauder, Look by Vera Wang
Chypre Fruity
Peach, apricot, plum and passion fruit are examples of fruit notes that work well in this sub-group.
Gucci by Gucci, Mitsouko by Guerlain

Citrus - Fresh and Clean

The predominant note in this family is composed of a sparkling citrus fruit. Bergamot, orange, mandarin, tangerine, lemon and grapefruit are commonly used.

Citrus Aromatic
Exciting spice notes such as thyme, mint, tarragon or rosemary harmonize beautifully with citrus top notes.
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, Aqua Di Parma

Oriental - Exotic and Rich

The heavy sweetness of sandalwood, musk and vanilla characterize this spicy, exotic family. Also known as the amber family, it captures the deep, rich and musky tones of the orient.

Oriental Floral
Romantic floral notes are added to the oriental base to create a light and modern olfactory family.
Burberry Brit by Burberry, Flower by Kenzo

Oriental Spicy
Spices such as cinnamon, clove and nutmeg add a distinguished tone to this sub-group.
Dior Addict, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

Oriental Woody
Dry cedar notes, amber or sandalwood are added for a warm and powdery finish.
Euphoria by Calvin Klein, DKNY Delicious Night

Woody - Dry and Opulent

Widely used in men’s fragrances, the woody family includes rich and complex notes of sandalwood, amber, patchouli, agar wood and cedar.

Woody Aquatic
Oceanic notes add a splash of energy to the dry, woody family.
Davidoff Cool Water, 212 Splash Men by Carolina Herrera
Woody Aromatic
Spice notes of thyme, rosemary and sage are harmonized with wood notes for a rich and flavorful fragrance.
I Am King by Sean John, Le Male by Jean P. Gaultier

Aromatic - Spicy and Fresh